Category Archives: Buying A Horse

The purchase of any horse should be treated as a process rather than an event, as it can be difficult if you lack experience in this area.

kathryn_robinson-international-event-rider
Buying A Horse Eventing General Horses For Sale Professional Rider Rio 2016

Kathryn Robinson Talks to Horse Scout

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail
Kathryn Robinson, Canadian event rider 
Naunton, England, with our Horse Scout reporter before setting off for the week of her life

International Event Rider , Kathryn Robinson, talks to Horse Scout about her career and her tips for buying an event horse

What are your biggest achievements?

Being chosen to represent my country (I was born in Canada and my mother is Canadian) and ride in the Olympics at Rio. I was travelling as reserve but due to a horse being lame, I’m now part of the team.
I was short-listed for London 2012 and in 2014 was selected for the WEG but was unable to compete because of a technical hitch with the paperwork. I’ve placed 7th at Pau four-star.

Tell us about your top horse, Let it Bee, who you’ll be riding for Canada in South America.

He’s a 15-year old German-bred gelding by Lamerto out of Baroness. I got him as a 7-year old from a guy that had bought him from an auction but was fed up as he had started to stick his tongue out. If I looked at him now I would never buy him — he’s so long, hence his nickname Limousine — and not put together to be a top event horse. But I bought him to do some pre novices to get my confidence back and just kept going. His best discipline is dressage and although he can be a bit hot at a one-day event, he’s very good at a three day and has been extremely consistent this year.

And you rode at Badminton for the first time earlier this year?

Yes, my aim was to complete, which I did with a double clear. I wasn’t the quickest cross country but I didn’t want to over phase him.

How did you get into eventing?

I didn’t grow up in a horsey family but I always loved them and belonged to the local pony club as a teenager. I stopped riding around the age of 16 and then didn’t take it up again until my 20s when I became a working pupil Samantha Albert, a Canadian-born eventer who rides for Jamaica.
She found me my first event horse, Hugo Simon, and I ended up doing quote well on him, competing in one and two stars and coming second at a one star in Portugal.

Who else would you say has been influential?

My fiancee Giovani Ugolotti (the Italian event rider) as he really helped me regain my confidence after losing Hugo. Gio’s my best coach — always honest and no, we don’t argue that much as neither of us can be bothered! We also both visit Henriette Anderson for dressage.

Tell us about some of your other horses.

Suttogo Georg is a 7-year-old, German-bred ex-show jumper who is nippy, spooky but a really good jumper. His weakest link is dressage but he’s not naughty, he’s just never been taught and I hope that will fall into place by next year and we can move up the grades.
I have another 7-year-old called Linus, a 6-year-old named Calling Card and a four-year old called Castello.

And they are all German?

Yes, I like the German horses and we have a good agent out there who I trust and has good eye.

So what would your advice be for others when buying a horse; particularly an event horse?

Go with someone you trust and who can be helpful with regards to the breeding.
Some great stallions produce very nice young horses but they don’t all go on to be a top event horse — look at those with good competition records.

And do you favour any bloodlines?

Linus and Calling Card are by Heraldic — but as he is so old it’s impossible to find them anymore.
We have three in the yard by Duke of Hearts. I just gave the ride on Duke of Champion to Gio… he just grew so big that I felt I couldn’t physically help him show jumping. Gio is pleased… he just got a 6-year-old at novice!

What single thing has changed your riding for the better?

I’ve always suffered from nerves and can freeze at a competition. This year I’ve seen two sports psychologists and they’ve been really helpful giving me exercises to stay focused — it has literally transformed my performance.

And next year is a big year… your wedding to Giovanni. Is it all organised?

The venue is… it’s at my parent’s house. Other than that, the only thing I’ve done is buy the dress! And we’re also going to have to have a mini honeymoon as the date is in the middle of the eventing season!
Kathryn Robinson has a professional Rider profile page on Horse Scout.  Click through and see her horses and read about her career as a professional Event rider and trainer.
horse_scout-interview-with-shaun-mandy
Buying A Horse Dressage General Horses For Sale Professional Rider

Shaun Mandy, Horse & Hound’s blogger

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Shaun Mandy – Horse & Hound blogger, dressage rider and coach talks to Horse scout about his practice.

A colourful character within the world of dressage, Shaun Mandy has been trained by some prolific names in the business. Here he gives us the lowdown of his life with horses and shares his tips on buying, backing and training youngsters.

 

How did you get into riding?

I grew up on a fruit farm in South Africa with a riding school on the neighbouring farm. Fascinated by horses, I dragged my mum to the school, began riding and never stopped. I was crazy on eventing despite the fact that from the age of 12, my instructor, Hillary (now a lifelong friend) said I’d always end up in dressage!

Have you worked for anyone famous?

I moved to the UK around 15 years ago when I was 17 for a placement at the Fortune Centre of Riding Therapy in the New Forest. From there I became a groom for Pippa Funnell and then Olympic gold medallist, Jane Holderness Roddam, at West Kington Stud where I got a lot of experience riding young horses and eventing.

And in the world of dressage?

I was given a horse that had bottled it cross country by the Dutch rider Eddy Stibbe. I then began training with Jenny Loriston-Clarke followed by Pammy Hutton, but the real turning point was when I decided to pack my bags (and my horse, Poppy, and dog, Pringle) and moved to Denmark to train with Hasse Hoffmann, a top trainer and author. I stayed for 18 months often riding around 10 horses a day from youngsters up to Grand Prix level before returning to the UK in 2015. I now train with Peter Storr and rent eight stables at Gainfield Farm, employ a groom and apprentice, and take in horses to produce, alongside competing my own horses.

Tell us a bit about your own horses.

My top horse is Euphoria E (Inky), a Dutch seven-year-old by Uthopia — I own half of him. We’ve just stepped up to advanced medium, came second at Wellington’s Premier League with 68.55% and we are aiming for PSG in the spring. At the regionals, Inky felt awesome in the Medium test getting many 8s, but unfortunately three costly mistakes meant we finished 9th on 67.47% — one judge summed it up well (see pic) just little disappointing when it’s so close to being super!
My other horse, D.I. Dompadour (Poppy), whom I own outright, was also doing advanced medium with the aim of PSG in 2017, until she had colic surgery recently which means she’s out for the rest of the year now. She’s talented but tricky with everything taking a long time — she’s eight years old now.
I also ride another Dutch gelding, a four-year old called Houston V (Huey) by Tango x Goodtimes, and have high hopes for him. We’ve competed in a couple of four-year-old classes and placed third at Hartpury scoring 78.8%. The next step is novice tests and five-year-old classes next year.

Do you buy and sell horses?

I recently went to Germany with Lorain Nixon, who owns Houston to buy two gorgeous three-year-old fillies. One Furstenball x Sandro Hit (Bella) and the other by Vitalis x Florestan 1 (Bonny). I backed both, sold one within a month, but hope to sell the other after doing some four-year-old classes next year.

So what do you look for when buying a youngster?

Natural ability is good to see when you’re buying an unbacked three-year-old or younger — it’s about watching them move loose in a school. I like to see them as natural as possible in their paces so trying to get them not too excited when chasing them around. Attitude is very important to me and a trainable mind. The walk and canter are also important. Looking for a walk with a good overtrack and an uphill canter with active hind leg. For the purpose of selling on, it helps to have well-known breeding using proven dressage sires and grandsires.

And your tips for backing a horse?

Sounds obvious but a horse learns a good habit as quickly it learns a bad one — so make sure you do everything carefully, slowly and correctly.
And if you have an ‘oops’ moment and scare it by doing something a little too quickly, go straight back and repeat it even slower to ensure they are 100% happy, rewarding them for their patience.

We’re envious… you’ve been taught by some highly reputable trainers — give us one tip that stands out in your mind even today.

It has to be a quote from Hasse, from my time with him in Denmark: “Ride with colour”.
It means to have a plan in your mind when you school and to mix things up — it’s easy to just put a horse through it’s paces but think what you are working towards and make it fun.

So you now train horses and riders up to four-star advanced eventers… Any tips you frequently incorporate into your work?

Make sure you change gears frequently when riding, especially in your trot and canter work. Inky can get stuck in a canter and I really need to think of changing the gear three or four times when going down the long side of the arena. It helps Inky tune into my signals but also strengthens by making him take more weight behind.

So what are your future goals, Shaun Mandy?

To continue training horses and riders, get more sponsors and owners onboard, to ride international GP and, eventually, get to the Olympics!

And your thoughts on Horse Scout?

Networking is so important for any rider in order to get and retain sponsors and owners. There hasn’t really been one place that you can do this until now. It’s pretty cool being able to control your own profile and those of your own horses, whether they’re for sale or not.
…end

– If you would like to keep a horse at livery or train with Shaun Mandy, who also takes competition liveries and producing/sales liveries then visit his Yard Profile on Horse Scout and  find more information on the fantastic facilities at Gainfield Farm – Shaun Mandy Dressage 

Buying A Horse

Improving your horses core strength from the ground

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Horse Scout blogger in meditation mode: Whether you are training a top class show jumper or Eventer as an athlete or working with young horses or perhaps trying to balance a big horse under you as per my recent blog. Then working from the ground is a useful and effective way to begin working on core strength with your horse.

Core strengthening exercises strengthen and stabilise the spine and pelvic muscles as the horse responds to pressure over specific areas. If you have strong hands, you can apply pressure manually; if not, use a metal thimble over your thumb or finger. Perform three to five repetitions, allowing the muscles to relax for a few seconds after each exercise.

Some horses, especially those that are girthy or cold-backed, may resent certain procedures. If resentment persists, omit the exercise until you’ve consulted with your veterinarian.

The following exercise stimulates lifting of the base of the neck, sternum, and withers through pressure on the ventral midline between the forelimbs. These movements are essential for self carriage.

Sternal, withers, and thoracic lifting exercise:

1. Stand facing the horse’s side, just behind the elbow.

2. Apply upward pressure to the sternum (breastbone) in the middle of your horse’s chest, between the pectoral muscles. Gradually slide your hand back between the forelimbs and behind the girth line while maintaining a steady upward pressure.

3. The horse responds by initially lifting through the sternum and withers. Then as the pressure moves further back, he responds by lifting in the thoracic area immediately behind the withers, and finally in the thoracic area under the saddle.

Note: the amount of pressure needed to stimulate a response will vary between horses, so start gently and increase pressure gradually, or use a slow stroking action until the horse responds.

  1. Balancing Exercises

Balancing exercises improve balance and stability by inducing the horse to use active muscular contractions to shift the centre of gravity toward his haunches and/or to resist displacement of his centre of gravity. A horse uses his muscles in some of the balancing exercises to shift his centre of gravity, while in others, he uses his muscles to resist a shift.

The next exercise stimulates activation of the pelvic stabiliser muscles to maintain the horse’s balance.

Tail pull:

1. Stand to one side of the hindquarters.

2. Take hold of the horse’s tail, pull it toward you by flexing your elbow. (The goal is not to pull the horse off balance, but to stimulate resistance in the pelvic stabiliser muscles.) You’ll see the muscles around the stifle contracting as the horse resists the pulling force.

3. You can gradually increase the amount of force applied to the tail or the number of repetitions as the muscles get stronger.

Remember to check with your veterinarian before including such exercises into your horse’s training regimen; this is especially important if the horse is recovering from an injury.

Core training exercises can be done without a warm-up–for example, in horses that are recovering from injury–because the horse controls the amount of motion, and loading of the joints is less than during locomotion.

This advice has come from Dr. Hilary Clayton —equestrian, veterinarian, author, researcher, and clinician — is known internationally for her ongoing contribution to the understanding of equine biomechanics particularly relating to performance and conditioning.   Dr. Clayton’s targeted studies in bitting, saddle fit biometrics, kinematics and kinetics, and locomotion have provided valuable insight into the mechanics of equine sports, the interaction between rider and horse, and the effects of various rehabilitation techniques.  You can read about her here of buy her book The Dynamic Horse.

Buying A Horse

Buying an All-Rounder? -When do you worry about a swelling?

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

When is a bump just a lump?

Are you looking for a horse for sale? One who has a few miles on the clock; the perfect all rounder who is experienced and safe?  Maybe you have seen a few and have noticed that some of them have swellings above the fetlocks on two or four of the legs. There can be many reasons for this and one reason can be hard work which can cause windgall swelling in a horse’s fetlock

What is a windgall? – Windgall is a term used to described the soft swellings often seen just above the fetlock on the forelegs and hind legs of older or hardworking horses, they are not warm to the touch. Windgalls in horses can be seen in many horses in full work – especially in the hind legs. The amount of swelling in a windgall can vary according to the weather – often being more filled in hot temperatures. Horses with hot swelling should be fully investigated by a vet before even considering purchasing.

Although windgalls on a horse’s legs can be an unsightly blemish they do not usually cause lameness – they do are not classed as an unsoundness unless they are causing lameness.  Below are descriptions of the different types of windgalls and they will help you decide if you should worry or not.  However if you are unsure always consult your veterinary surgeon.

SYNOVIAL FLUID IN EQUINE WINDGALLS – A layman’s science

Windgall swellings on the fetlocks occur when the tendon sheaths above the horse’s fetlocks become filled with synovial fluid.

All horse or pony’s joints contain lubricating synovial fluid within a sac or capsule which prevents the fluid leaking away into the surrounding tissues. In the case of the fetlock, the capsule extends out of the back of the actual joint and forms a pouch above the sesamoid bones behind the cannon bone.

If this pouch of the joint capsule becomes thickened or distended, the resulting swelling on the back of the fetlock is known as an articular windgall.

The tendon sheath, in contrast, has nothing to do with the joint and is best

imagined as a sausage of fluid which envelopes the tendons as they run over the back of the fetlock.

At the upper limit just above the level of the sesamoid bones, this fluid filled sausage lies close to the skin, so that any distension will cause a bulge between the flexor tendons and the suspensory ligament – the tendinous windgall.

TENDINOUS WINDGALL

Of the two types of windgall in horses, the tendinous windgall is the most common and least likely to reflect any real trouble.

Tendinous windgalls are often seen in middle aged horses and ponies who have worked hard – in many cases the swelling actually represents thickening of the membrane lining the sheath rather then free fluid. Tendinous windgalls come and go in some horses and ponies.

ARTICULAR WINDGALLS

Articular windgalls are more likely to be an indicator of genuine disease, as they appear in cases of degenerative joint disease of the fetlock and in certain traumatic conditions.

They are also seen in a great number of ‘normal’ horses who never show any signs of lameness over a protracted period, appearing as firm bulges between the back of the cannon bone and the suspensory ligament.

Many showjumpers, eventers, hunters and ponies develop stiff fetlocks which cannot be passively flexed to the normal extent and which carry articular windgalls all the time.

These horses appear to cope well with these inflexible fetlocks and, although they might pose a dilemma for a veterinary surgeon examining the horse for soundness prior to purchase, the horses go on, season after season.

‘WINDGALLS’ APPEARING BELOW THE FETLOCKS

If a windgall-like swelling appears below the horse’s fetlock, on the back of the pastern, this usually represents a swelling of the lower part of the flexor sheath of the tendons, rather like an upside down tendinous windgall.

Such swellings should be viewed with suspicion, as they may indicate that the sausage of the sheath is being compressed in the middle, making both ends bulge.

Compression is usually due to a contraction of the annular ligament which runs in a thick hand around the back of the fetlock from one sesamoid bone to the other, looping over the tendons.

Should this structure become inflamed or tightened, abnormal pressure will be placed on the tendons and their sheath, restricting the free movement of the tendons over the sesamoids.

This condition, known by a variety of names like Annular Ligament Disease or Desmitis of the Annular Ligament, causes a chronic low grade lameness which may resolve with a period of treamnet and rest, only to return when the horse is brought back into work

Buying A Horse

10 helpful hints when buying or selling horses

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Horse Scout has a great website for buyers and sellers alike. The sales and professional pages are full of information and clear to read.  This makes it so much easier for both buyers and sellers. Having all relevant information sorted into categories make it easy to make informed choices when looking at the horses form or potential.  Good photographs make a difference to a viewers initial decision and Horse Scout offers both stills and video footage.

10 Helpful Hints when Buying or Selling Horses

1. As a seller write your advert carefully and be accurate in your description, don’t advertise your horse 100% in traffic if you have only ever ridden him down quiet country lanes. Both Sellers and Buyers should keep a copy of the advert which can be useful if there is a dispute in the future.

  1. If you are having the horse vetted which is always recommended, do not use the regular vet of the seller. You must instruct an independent vet and pay for the vet direct.
  2. If it is important that the horse is good to load, ask to see him load. If you ask the seller to confirm that the horse is vice free get the seller to warrant that the horse is vice free by writing it down. As a Seller, if you have told the Buyer that the horse is green and has never been ridden out alone before, for example, write this down and ask the buyer to sign it acknowledging the fact.
  3. Don’t buy a horse without its passport.
  4. Be realistic about your abilities – don’t over horse yourself.
  5. If you discover a problem with your horse inform the seller immediately and keep copies or notes of all correspondence.
  6. When you go to try or look at a horse to buy always take an experienced person with you if you are a novice.
  7. If the Seller is selling on behalf of someone else, if appropriate contact the Owner direct. Whenever looking at a horse ask lots of questions about vices, what it has done, its breeding, competition record, laminitis, sweet itch, lameness etc.
  8. Cut your losses – If all has gone wrong and you end up with an unsuitable horse, come to terms with the fact and don’t always insist on litigation which can be expensive, consider selling it to a more suitable home. As a Seller, if a horse proves to be unsuitable for a Buyer consider taking the horse back and finding an alternative buyer, if the horse is genuine this shouldn’t be a problem.
  9. Always have a written contract, with details of the buyer, seller, price and warranties (if any) given signed by both parties.
Buying A Horse

Top Tips for bonding with your new horse.

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

You’ve checked out Horse Scouts Horses for sale pages and fond the perfect match  are you on the a mission to buy a new horse.  Looking for the right horse for sale can be stressful, although undoubtedly exciting.  With lots of people trying him out and disrupting his daily routine it can also be stressful for the horse who is for sale. It does not stop there though , your new horse is then moved from the familiar and is faced with getting used to new people and new surroundings to get used to. A good bonding exercise and one which will help your horse feel that he has a true friend is to spend time grooming him and this also helps you to get to know him too..  Here are some top tips to try out on your new horse.

Top Tips to make your new horse as sparkly as he can be.

1. Ask your vet about adding vegetable oil or an essential Omega-3 fatty acid supplement to your horse’s well-balanced diet for added shine.

2. Sponging your horse’s face clean after exercise helps prevent fungal hair loss.

3. Keep different sized sponges for different duties (face, body, dock) and remember which is used for each task.

4. Hoof picks are cheap. Always use a sharp one to remove  debris, and replace the pick when it no longer does the job easily.

5. Use a tail bag to keep your horse’s tail thick, long and protected. Make sure to wash, condition, detangle and replait once a week, securing the tail bag below the tailbone.

6. Spend two minutes every two weeks running your clippers over your horse’s whiskers.

7. Hoof oils and dressings for health or show are available. If you have a particular concern in mind, such as hooves that crack easily, ask your farrier for product suggestions.

8. Use a detangler and a wide-toothed comb (or your fingers) to remove any large snarls from mane and tail.

9. Dark coats often fade or bleach in the sunlight, so provide plenty of shade and consider adding a sheet. Sweat in the coat accelerates the fade, so rinse a sweaty horse before allowing him to bask in the sunshine.

10. Wash your horse but don’t overdo it—frequent shampooing may actually dull his coat.

If you are looking for a new horse take a look at the for sale listings on Horse Scout.  Good luck and happy brushing.

Buying A Horse

The advantages of buying from professional trainers who sell horses

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Do you or don’t you? Don’t dis dealers.

Are you thinking of buying a horse but slightly overwhelmed by the sheer numbers and descriptions of the horses on offer?  There are distinct advantages when buying from a professional, established horse sales business. No door to door when buying from a horse from a Dealer

What classes a person who sells horses as a dealer?

There is no statutory definition of what makes a dealer a dealer, however when someone sells a horse ‘in the course of business’ and sells more than three horses a year they are classed as traders or dealers.

Spoilt for choice

Unlike buying privately, a dealer is likely to have a large selection of horses of all shapes and sizes making it easier for you to find your perfect partner. It is important that you state exactly what you are looking for and be open and honest with your capabilities. When possible get detailed descriptions of the horses you are looking at in writing – asking them to email is an easy way – and ask what trial facilities they have.

Protection when buying

One of the biggest benefits to buying through a trader or dealer is that once you have established that they are selling the horse in the course of business, you will be protected under the Sale of Goods Act 1979. This means that the goods you buy must be reasonably fit for the purpose for which they are intended, however this purpose must be made known to the seller clearly which is why, if you can, you should get the description of the horse in writing. If the horse you purchase is deemed unsuitable, you may have a claim for breach of contract which means you should be able to return your horse and potentially claim further damages if applicable.

Some well established dealers may have their own warranty and terms and conditions of sale, often these can be found on their website. You should always make sure you have read them carefully before buying a horse from them – in the event of a problem it may be deemed that you have read them and they could form as part of the terms of sale.

Our top tips for buying from a dealer or trader

Never buy a horse unseen, you can’t get a true feeling for what you are buying from images and video clips alone. Even if they are a long distance away it is worth travelling to see them to save you the heartache and stress of purchasing an unsuitable horse.

Go to a dealer based on recommendations and word of mouth, not just based on their own testimonials on their website. Look online and in forums to get some real references and if you can chat to previous clients – an honest dealer won’t have a problem with you contacting previous buyers.

Don’t be pressured by the sales person. They may tell you that they have other people coming to see the horse later that day to push for a quick sale. Give yourself time to think and ensure your decision is the right one, don’t feel rushed.

Always take a knowledgeable person with you when you go to view and try a horse, if you are inexperienced take someone who is willing to ride the horse as well to get a better idea of whether it is suitable. If you aren’t confident to try out a horse be honest and say, don’t feel pressured in to it, the seller would rather you were honest than waste their time.

Be wary if the horse is tacked up when you get there, it could be a sign that it is cold backed or difficult to tack up, also look for signs that it has already been ridden that day.

Always see the horse ridden before you get on.

Watch the horse in the stable to check they have no vices such as wind sucking or weaving.

Ask if you can have the horse on trial, or can come back and see the horse on a different day, try first thing in the morning when it could be at its freshest.

Always get the horse vetted yourself and don’t accept a vet certificate from the dealer.

If a dealer comes with recommendations and a good reputation then there are many good reasons for looking for a horse being sold by a dealer.  The truth is that whilst the word ‘dealer’ may have unwarranted connotations of dastardly deeds and double dealing, the truth is that dealers are running a business and that a bad reputation is bad for business.

Horse Scout has quite a few listed dealers and the re is bound to be a centre near you.  Take a look at their profiles.

 

Andrea Verdina – Hungerford, Wilts

Oliver Townend – Ellesmere, Shropshire

Aqua Rask – Carrington, Greater Manchester

Peter White – Basingstoke, Hampshire

Lucienne Elms – Romsey, Hampshire

Jess Butler – Melton Mowbray, Leics

Connie Hannaway – Armagh, Armagh

Gregor Knox – Northleach, Gloucestershire

Luis Principe – Cheltenham, Gloucestershire

Michelle Walker – Congleton, Cheshire

Lucca Stubington – Antrim, Antrim

 

Buying A Horse

11 Top Tips – Focus list for buying your horse

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

You know what you want….So keep focused when buying your horse.

You’ve made a decision and you are going to buy a horse.  My advice? …Make a shopping list first.

List everything that you want your horse to be, his minimum level of experience, how you are going to fit on him and what you want to do with him.  You can make it more detailed with specifics like age, breed, build, bone etc but promise yourself that if you write it down then you will stick to it.  So put a lot of thought into this preparatory step before even pressing a horses for sale link!

Shopping list sorted and your ready to start looking so here is a handy focus list for you to help keep you on track.

  1. Decide what type of horse you are after and stick to it. It’s all too easy to get carried away when you’re looking for a horse, so If you are after a schoolmaster don’t come home with a recently broken 3 year old!
  2. Ask yourself will this horse do the job I want him for?  “Could I see this horse in the arena, x country, hunting all day etc ?” It really helps to keep a clear picture of what you are looking for.  It is so easy to get side tracked and buy on impulse based on nothing more than the colour of a horses coat.
  3. Keep a constant eye on the market – The good ones tend to get snapped up very quickly, in the past I’ve seen them on Horse Scout in the morning and sold be lunchtime!
  4. Be prepared to take your time finding a horse – sometimes it can be a lengthy and tedious process, if the first horse isn’t right it might be the second, fifth or tenth!  And always try a horse twice – you will pick up on things at a second visit that you missed the first time around
  5. Make a list of questions and make sure you get an answer to every one before hanging up.  Let the seller talk, often as you chat you can pick up things that are not written in the ad.  E.g. “Is he quiet in the stable?” “Oh yes, burble on a bit…” followed by “of course if you wave your arms around he can throw up his head” no this might describe the horse exactly or it could be a way of saying you have to be very quiet around the horse as it spooks easily in its stable.  Bear this in mind when you visit the horse.  Don’t go mad but just see what the seller means.
  6. Ask direct questions about vices etc like weaving or windsucking, cold back etc by specifically asking the question. Technically a seller is oblisged to come clean but if he hesitates or changes the subject be wary. If this happens go aware to the visit if you still want to go ahead, this will save you time and money in the long run. Ask for a video of the horse inaction, this can be a great way of telling whether a horse is worth the time and cost of fuel of a viewing.
  7. Don’t waste peoples time If you arrive and immediately know the horse is not for you then don’t be afraid to say so, the seller should appreciate your honesty and this way you won’t be wasting your time either.  It can be difficult to be blunt but better for all concerned in the long run.  You may well make friends with the seller but they are not, at this point, your friend and will not mind your honesty.
  8. If you can then video the horse – you can watch it again and again which will help you make a decision and similarly, take someone with you that knows your riding – it can be so worthwhile to have another ‘pair of eyes’ to assess the horse
  9. Ask questions, questions and more questions! Buying a horse is a huge decision and you need to know everything you can about the horse before you commit to buying it. If the seller is genuine they will be able to answer all of them!
  10. Sleep on it.  The seller is keen to make a sale but you must be certain that this is the right horse for you.  After all you will have a huge time, money and resources tied up in your equine partner so make sure you are making a decision based on all the things that are on your shopping list and not on an impulse.
  11. Having made a decision it is advisable to get a vet check, but keep it appropriate you don’t need a 5* vetting if you are not expecting to seriously compete on your horse.  However, your vet will be able to advise you if you tell him what you want to use the horse for.

Don’t go off track, pick the perfect horse for you.  Good luck with your search and let us know how you get on.

Buying A Horse

Buying a dressage horse? 10 tips for a happy start to your new relationship 

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Start slow and Be patient. Don’t ask for too much too soon, especially when working with a young horse.

Take time to get to know your new horse.  Establish a good relationship with and to get to know their personality, strengths and weaknesses.

Start at the beginning.  Initially go right back to the basics and establish your own way of going with your new horse.  Start with bending and riding a straight line; you will find it easier later on to ride the more advanced moves accurately

Keep your horse interested.  Don’t endlessly go round in circles at the same pace use transitions.  It’s a good way to calm a hot horse and excellent for helping a lazy horse focus on the job and both types become more responsive to the leg.

Build in down time during your riding sessions.  Allow your horse to stretch and unwind and stretch his muscles between exercises.

Build a varied routine into your training schedule.  Hack out and jump  to keep your horse interested and help him (and you) keep a fresh outlook.

Even if you have just bought yourself a school master start by going to low key events and taking your time to get to know your horse under pressure. And let him understand the difference in the way you ride in competition mode.

Be prepared for lots of hard work, even with established horses a proper working relationship takes time to grow. Perfecting your moves will not come over night for either you or your horse

Practice, practice, practice

And most importantly ‘Remember to have fun’ is key to enjoying your new purchase.

Buying A Horse

Top Tips for Buying your First Horse

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

You’ve made up your mind,  you are going to buy a horse…

You know what your looking for; well roughly!  You are trying not to think of the cold winter rainy evenings and are focusing on the sunny balmy summer rides. You have sat down and done your sums and you have a budget and a sum you can ring fence every month to keep him and a savings account to pay into for emergencies and all those things you never thought that you would ever need.

Importantly you have worked out what size, shape, sex, ability, colour, age, confirmation, temperament, your budget and where you are going to look……yes! You have to know these things before you set out….well not the colour obviously because if you are thinking straight that is right sown at the bottom of your list –  NO? If it happens to be in your top three cross it out.  I promise colour is the least important thing on your shopping list, that and its name; although how many white socks it has and if it has a blaze can be important considerations-more on that later.

Where do I start? Top Technical Tips

Tipping the Scales – What size?

Lets work out roughly what size horse you are looking for –

  1. Add up the total weight of the horse, rider, and tack. Our eg: Horse (15.2 allrounder at 400 kg) + rider (Jo average 5’.4” and 70KG) + tack= 507kg (convert to lbs=1188lbs)
  2. Measure the circumference of the cannon bone midway between the knee and fetlock. Our example: 7.5 inches
  3. Divide the total weight by the circumference. Our example: 1188 / 7.5 = 158.4
  4. Divide the result by two. Our example: 158.4 / 2 = 79.2

 

You know exactly how tall you are and how much you weigh (methinks!) Here’s an average horse weight chart

Height (hh) Weight Range (kg)
9-9.3 – Shetland 200- 240
10-10.3 240-280
12 – 12.3 200-300
13-13.3 230-370
14-14.3 290-390
15-15.1 360-550
15.2-153 400-510
16-16.1 470-550
16.2-16.3 490-650
17.2-17.3 640-900
17.2-17.3 – Shire 850-950


…but…..and there is always a but! Some breeds have denser bones e.g. Arabs and Icelandic and New Forest Ponies which means they are able to carry heavier weights than others of a similar height and build.

Horses can be separated by build (height weight ratio) into light, middle and heavy weight and in the case of show horses “small” as well. This is not meant to be an indication of their present dieting regime but describes their build, and confusingly, this is relative to their breed types in most cases.  So, for instance, a light weight hunter (usually a ¾ or 7/8th Thoroughbred) is a well built, elegant horse of around 16-16.2hh capable of carrying around 12st.7lbs (177lbs/80kgs) including all tack and a bone size of around 8 inches. A middleweight hunter may be around 16.2hh, so slightly taller and have a deeper girth and a heavier build with a bone size of around 9 inches.

New Forest Pony breed guide says that a new forest is capable of carrying a stone for every hand and Shetlands are capable of an even greater height weight ratio.  However, if you are tall riding a small pony is not always very comfortable or elegant.

I think the point I am making is that TOP TIP One is buy a horse to make you happy and TOP TIP TWO is buy a horse that fits.  More pointers In TOP TIP THREE.

 

 

Recent Posts

Subscribe to our mailing list

* indicates required
Interests