Monthly Archives: February 2015

Horse Advice

10 top tips to help you remember that your horse is reactive – Not Toxic!

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When its all going wrong: Have you ever wondered why your horse always does what you ask him?

Did you realise that is was you that asked him to stay standing on you toe?

Did you realise that you asked him to skip to the right as you approached the fence?

When something like this happens with a horse, try going back and reviewing what you actually told him. You’ll usually find the answer there.

The problem is that we often don’t have the knowledge or the skills to ask for what we want. We ask for something which the horse interprets as Behaviour A. We thought we were asking for Behaviour B. We keep on asking for B which the horse interprets as a request for Behaviour A. It keeps escalating. The horse is “bad.” Actually, the horse is trying to comply, but rather than his not listening to us, we’re not listening to him.

“My horse won’t do what I want—here comes the fatal saying—so …HE IS BEING BAD.”

As soon as I add that cop out conclusion that the reason my horse won’t do what I want is “because he is being bad,” I give myself “permission” to punish him for that “bad” behavior, and the downward spiral into a fight has begun.

“BAD” is a value laden word, which implies malign motive on the part of the horse. Even though we know that a horse is reactive we still insist that he is proactively challenging us. A good trainer almost never says or thinks, “My horse is being bad.” She may well say, “My horse won’t do what I want.” That’s a frequent fact. But then the GOOD trainer will start hunting for the REAL reason.

She might say, “My horse won’t do what I want BECAUSE…” one or several of these:

  1. He doesn’t understand the aids I just applied.
  2. He’s not calm enough yet in his work to handle this request.
  3. My warm up was too short—he’s still “high”.
  4. I`m asking him the wrong way, as in, I don’t know how to ask this question.
  5. The horse isn’t physically strong enough yet to comply with what I asked.
  6. Something hurts him, saddle fit, bit, hocks, stifles, back, something is making him uncomfortable.
  7. The atmosphere here is too electric for him to handle.
  8. Oops, I am in a bad mood, and I asked too roughly.
  9. I as a rider am not yet physically elastic and quiet enough in my riding to not upset him.
  10. …….or one of the other 101 other real reasons.

 

Don’t be demoralized, we all need help from the ground, talk to your trainer or find someone who can help you change your approach.

Horse Advice

Spring Cleaning your stable – Is it 10 or 11 Top Tips from Horse Scout today?

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Now the weather is getting better (apart from a few apocalyptic storms, of course!) it’s nearly time for the annual stable clean. Every stable needs a deep clean once a year, we all dread it but here are some tips and helpful pointers to make it that little bit less traumatic and more efficient!

It’s all in the preparation so here are Horse Scouts’ top tips and advice:

On a good warm, sunny day with no chance of rain follow our 11 tips (well, 10 really, the last one isn’t so much of a tip, it’s an order!)

1) First of all, tie those locks back into a bun or cover your hair (Silly shower caps are a great way to cover your hair – and look ridiculous – even if you do look like a cabbage patch kid), get yourself a pair of goggles and some old scruffs, the ones you don’t mind throwing away afterwards…

2) Get your tools ready before you start (and someone to help if possible to hold ladders, lift matting etc.) Here are some ideas of the kind of things you’ll need: ladders, barrows, good brooms, buckets, disinfectant, hose or pressure waster (pressure washers are a god-send, perhaps try to borrow one if you can!)

3) Take everything out of the stable before you start.  Don’t be tempted to leave your bedding in the stable otherwise you’ll only be worried about dust getting in it.

4) Give roof areas and trusses a good sweep or, even a hoover, to remove dust and cobwebs (I always empty afterwards; in case the spiders climb back out of the tube!)

5) Clean and check all light fittings and windows, we recommend some white vinegar to clean the windows, less chemicals for the horse and much cheaper and leaves your windows spotless! Or even better go chemical free an duse damp newspaper followed by a dry piece.

6) Clean out  buckets and/or water feeder thoroughly, remember to scrub. “Milton” is a good chemical to clean things your horse will eat/drink out of, it’s used for infants and is less smelly than bleach and less harmful. Another great one is the ecover range, no harsh chemicals and smells…

7) Disinfect the floor and hose down.  This can be done with a dedicated disinfectant or simply a mixture of water and bleach.  Allow plenty of time for your stable to dry after you’ve hosed it down and make sure it’s thoroughly rinsed, horses don’t like the smell of bleach 🙂

8) The grimmest part of the clean, are you ready?!:  Put a peg on your nose, scrub the rubber matting clean and hose down the underside whilst it’s out of the stable side … Yuk! (Or pay your little brother or sister £5 to do it for you!) You’re welcome!

9) Allow it to dry thoroughly – we mean really thoroughly!

10) Put everything back, only if you’re sure it’s truly clean, ie that there’s no smell of ammonia

11) Finally have a cup of tea and a bar of chocolate, check the Horse Scout Twitter Page and dream about the months of great summer riding ahead!

 

 

Horse Jobs

Show Jumping Apprentice – Are you looking for work in Alton Hampshire?

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Apprentice show jumping groom / working pupil – Alton Hants

Malcolm Aitken (MA Sports Horses) is currently looking for a hard working, literate, honest young person to train as a show jumping groom. The applicant must be organised, dedicated, punctual, good with animals and patient. The successful applicant will be provided with suitable training and instruction to allow him/her to progress their career. It would be beneficial for the applicant to be a capable rider and be prepared to ride a range of horses although not essential. There will be some mucking out and some travelling to shows and since he also has a Stallion and several youngsters some of the work will involve providing assistance with our small scale breeding programme. Regrettably no accommodation. Car driver preferred.Malcolm runs a small competition yard in Medstead where he currently has a very exciting string of horses and is looking forward to attracting new horses and owners. Malcolm brings on and sells quality young show jumping horses from Novice to Foxhunter Level.

He also teaches range of clients from teenagers to experienced amateurs. Runs a dealing, sales and full and part livery service. UKCC Level II coach and Pony Club Accredited trainer – Show Jumper up to Foxhunter. Specialist in bringing on and selling ponies

 

 

Horse Advice

Warning Signs – What is equine atypical myopathy?

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Ever heard of EAM?  I hadn’t until I was alerted to it on social media this week as there’s been lots of discussion about it.  Want to know more about this fatal equine disease, then read what I’ve found out about it so far…

What is it?

Equine Atypical Myopathy, or EAM as it is more commonly known, is a fast and frequently fatal condition, affecting grazing horses mostly in the Spring and/or Autumn.  A staggering 80+% of cases are fatal in as little as 11 hours from onset. It occurs in fields, affecting the horse’s muscles in a similar way to Azetoria (tying up).

The Cause

Hypoglycin A, is the toxin that is believed to be responsible for this disease.  It’s present in the seeds of some Acers such as Acer pseudoplatanus, which to you and me is simply known as the Maple tree or Sycamore tree.

Risk Season

The clinical signs seem to appear after the occurrence of specific climatic conditions.  The peak seasons when these conditions are most prevalent are Autumn and Spring when rain, showers and wind blow the Acer and Sycamore seeds or seedlings on to the fields.

Areas at Risk

Any fields with Sycamore or Maple trees on or near them present a risk to equines.  The wind can blow the seeds a surprisingly long way.  To avoid the risk of any horses or ponies contracting EAM, it’s recommended that the seeds are removed in the autumn and also to look out for and remove seedlings in the Spring.

Young horses and ponies that are out at grass 24/7 and not in work are the most commonly affected.  Those not immunized, rugged, fed supplementary feed or provided with shelter are also at greater risk.

Warning Signs

Warning signs could be one or more of the following:

  • Lethargy, reluctance or inability to move
  • Head held low, an almost laminitic type stance (if still standing); it can look similar to colic but the gut sounds often normal
  • Reduction in appetite but will still eat and pass urine and/or droppings
  • tense hindquarters, possibly with some trembling, shoulders the same;  the trembling seems to come in waves
  • Red nostrils
  • Vocal
  • Depressed
  • Dark Urine
  • Increased respiratory rate.

IF YOU SUSPECT ATYPICAL MYOPATHY, CALL YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY.

Thanks to Kit Haughton for her great tips on Equus

Horse Advice

Cool canter? – Warming up and early canter work.

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Make sure you can see the light – a cool canter with the Christop Hess clinic tip

The classical canter seat in dressage and when schooling is to site into the horse with hips aligned to the hips of the horse and the shoulders to the horses shoulders, thus advancing the stride with a asymmetric contact into the saddle allowing for the stabalising inside leg under tension and in contact with the horse in the girth area and the holding outside leg keeping bend and holding the quarters on line.  This is the way to ride a canter when schooling and when in a dressage arena….. but! In order to generate the lift and ease of a rhythmic canter which is full of energy and is light and forward moving the horse has to be able to engage fully through its back a horse must have a strong back and be elastic in its stride.

When warming up and when teaching a horse to canter a light or two point seat allows the horse to rise in the back and ‘find his rider’. Christoph Hess, Germany’s FEI dressage and eventing judge explains, at a recent clinic, that the advantages are important and every horse can benefit from riding the canter this way.

This way of riding a canter creates an appearance of somewhat bouncy canter seat but it should never ever be heavy on the horse’s back (rider’s seat either just about brushes the saddle in the down phase or lifts again before coming in contact with the saddle. All movement of the horse goes through rider’s knees and hips. This way of riding in half seat is sometimes referred to as an “incorrect rising canter” but whatever we call it, it really builds feel, stability, upper body independence and arms suppleness. It also helps the rider with timing of the leg aids and with supporting each canter stride as and when necessary.  This approach, additionally, increases reaction time when jumping, is great for very hot horses and helps those riders who tend to fold over the jumps excessively.

Many novice and intermediate riders have trouble with riding the actual canter stride of their horse without stiffness. If they feel nervous they might move own body in “shorter” strides or “longer” strides, they might worry about being left behind or bounced upwards, they might grip through their thighs and knees and lose their stirrups, they might lock through their hip joints and “drive” the canter by rubbing their seat down into the saddle. This encourages the horse to dip his back away from the pressure and therefore tensing the very muscles that needs to be relaxed and supple for the movement to be most effortless and pleasant to both sit to and to watch.

Riders with a tendancy to grip with their knees in canter or sitting trot  will struggle to improve the quality of their horses’ canter will also find both of these exercises to have unlocking effect on their pelvis and knees and stabilising effect on their hands. In turn, this will help with expression and freedom of the horse’s movement.

Having a set of eyes on the ground will really help you with your canter work.  Horse Scout has a fabulous listing for professional trainers and working with someone else who has your interests at heart will change your attitude to cantering with your horse and improve your riding relationship with him.

Equestrian Transport

For ever on the road – John Treagood

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As I drove home yesterday I saw John’s Wagon on the roundabout outside Exeter.  His camp was looking untidy and he was no where to be seen, nor his horse, Gildor.  I have spotted John and his raggle taggle band around the place in Devon for years.  I was wondering what was up and when I read this story in the Express and Echo it made me wonder how he was going to adapt to life with a new horse or whether, now, he would have to think of parking up somewhere.

TRAVELLING man John Treagood has been left stranded on an Exeter roundabout following the death of his faithful horse Gildor. The even tempered, Irish cob horse, which for the past 18 years has happily hauled Mr Treegood and his small wagon home around Devon, died earlier this week. A bereft Mr Treagood, 79, said: “I am not sure what I am going to do now. I can’t really talk about it. “Gildor was a good friend to me and wonderful horse. “I shall just stay put and not think about what I am going to do for a few days. It is all a bit of a shock. “I have some friends who might be able to help but I shall wait and see. It’s too soon to talk about that sort of thing.” Mr Treagood, who is now camped on a roundabout just outside Alphington, said Gildor was 28 years old and he had owned him for the past 18 years. “He started to lose weight recently and it turned out his kidneys had given up. “I couldn’t stand to see him suffer I had a responsibility not to do that so he had to be put down. “The good people from the World Horse Welfare charity came along and he was put down round the corner, quietly and peacefully.” Mr Treagood has two other constant companions, his dogs Hale and Whisky. Often he would travel the area, “depending on which way my horse goes.”Gildor was able to see white road lines recognise traffic lights, stopping on red.Mr Treagood said:“The only thing that freaked him a bit was the sound of a braying donkey, which isn’t too surprising.”On ‘moving days’, the caravan could travel up to 30 miles a day along Devon’s roads, Mr Treagood walking. Gildor was happy to pull the wagon, but he would not be ridden because he liked to be able to see his owner.Mr Treagood, who was born in Kent, he never knew his mother and was raised by his grandfather until he decided to run away from home when he was 16.He joined the Army and left after six after with a lump sum of money after being blinded in one eye, and used it to get an education.He has a BA in medieval history and a PhD in environmental studies. He became a freelance lecturer and then one day picked up his backpack and went for a walk, and hasn’t stopped travelling since. Eventually John swapped his backpack for a wagon and a horse, and the little money he needs to get by is earned by doing odd jobs. He does not collect a pension, but does tree pruning, gardening and odd jobs taking what is offered in payment. Read more: http://www.exeterexpressandecho.co.uk/Devon-traveller-John-Treagood-stranded-Exeter/story-26057657-detail/story.html#ixzz3SYMvlIWS

Stallions At Stud

Straight from the horses mouth; or at least …the Catherston Stud News Desk!

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Straight from the horses mouth; or at least …the Catherston News Desk!
The foaling season is about to begin with our first mares in for foaling down at Catherston. We are also busy with the dressage horses getting ready for the Regionals. Contenders from Novice Freestyle to Advanced Medium will be at Kingston Maurward in the middle of February. Good luck to you all. Catherston is excited to announce that the Loriston-Clarke Family and friends have purchased the young stallion Timolin from his breeder. Timolin, by Totilas stood at Catherston last year and we eagerly await his first crop of foals some due in April 2015. Timolin will be standing at the stud fee of £1,000 to approved mares. Please forward your mare’s breeding, photographs of her and any stock already produced.
Catherston has been quick to congratulation Jan at the BEF for organising another stunning Stallion Parade at Hartpury. They say that their lovely stallion Timolin behaved perfectly in his first ever ridden performance with Lizzie Murray. Lizzie also showed Catherston Springsteen. Littledale Bright Star with Morgan Graveley reminded people that smart things come in small packages and is superb at crossing with small horses to produce outstanding pony FEI dressage prospects. The last of our boys parading was Opposition Bombshell with Charlotte Dicker CFD Dressage in the eventing section who again presented himself exceptionally.
All in all a very successful outing for Catherston. Congratulations form the Horse Scout Team.

Showjumping

Keep those Show Jumps Standing- 7 steps to jump a perfect round.

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To jump a horse successfully a rider can break each stage in the process down into seven separate steps. the seven stages need to be ridden accurately. With the rider remaining in balance and able to help the horse both before during and after the jump.

The 7 stages to jumping:

1. Turn.

2. Approach.

3. Take off.

4. Jump.

5. Landing.

6. Get away.

7. Turn.

1) The Turn

The turn to the jump needs to be ridden accurately so that it lines you up with the centre of the jump being straight ahead. The rider needs to be sitting up and looking ahead to the jump that they are going to do, with the horse being ridden from the riders leg up into the hand, to keep the horse in a balanced rhythm which has plenty of impulsion.

2) Approach

The approach needs to lead you directly to the centre of the jump which you are planning to jump. The rider needs to be sitting up, looking ahead and channeling the horse forward, between their hand and their legs enabling the rider to maintain a straight line, with the horse maintaining the impulsion and balance that is required.

3) Take Off

This is the point at which the horse begins to gather his hindlegs underneath his body and starts to lift up the forehand. The rider needs to keep their lower leg securely wrapped around, to maintain the horses energy and forward momentum.The riders hands need to follow the movement of the horses head and neck and still maintain a contact through the rein to the bit. At the point of takeoff the rider should still be looking ahead, up and over the jump.

4) Jump

This is the point at which the horse will bascule in the air,the forehand is well lifted, and the back well rounded, with their forelegs tucked up in the front and the hind legs tucked up at the back allowing the horse to clear the jump. When the horse is in the air the the rider folds into the jumping position. To achieve a good fold the riders upper body is lowered, with the seat being slipped to the back of the saddle, the riders hand position allows the horse to stretch through their neck, back and body, giving the horse the freedom of movement they require, while still maintaining a light contact through the rein. The riders lower leg needs to stay securely wrapped around the horse to help maintain balance when in the fold or jumping position. The riders position needs to fold straight so that they can still look ahead through the horses ears and on to the next fence, any deviation of the riders position by going off to the side or twisting of the position will unbalance not only the horse but ultimately the rider as well.

5) Landing

The horse now starts to stretch out and extend their front legs ready for landing. Depending on the cater lead that is required, the horse will land with one foreleg landing first then quickly followed by the other foreleg, and the hindquarters following through from behind. The rider will start by bringing their upper body back up into a upright position, while still allowing their hands to remain in contact through the rein to the bit in the horses mouth, but without interfering with the horses balance and movement, this is especially important as horses use their necks for most of their balance. The riders lower leg should remain in position, still on the girth area of the horse, with the rider looking ahead to the next fence.

6) Get Away

The horse is now moving away from the jump and on to the next. The rider needs to make sure that the horse is in balance with plenty of energy and impulsion still being generated and that the horse is on the correct canter lead to enable it to turn in balance to the next fence. The rider should check that their position is still accurate, with reins the correct length, and lower leg secure and with the upper body sitting tall and the rider focused on the next jump.

7) Turn

This is where the rider turns away from one fence and on to the other, and the seven stages start all over again.

Are you looking for a jumping horse.  Horse Scout has some great horses and ponies advertised on its pages.  Take a look.

Horse Advice

Top Tips for a well structured Warm Up routine (part three)

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Have you been reading my blogs on warming up.  By now you are well on the way to having a warmed up horse and now you’re warm, loose and breathing more heavily – At least your horse is!

Your horse is loose and warm and flexible and now you want to engage his brain and for him to engage his muscles. The next stage is to focus on getting every single joint in your horse’s body moving. Pole work is a great way to do this – by getting him to lift his legs up and over the poles, you’re stimulating and asking for movement in all of his joints. Walking over poles on the ground will raise his forehand and also helps to tone his thoracic sling muscles, these are between his front legs and play an important role in supporting his forehand between his front legs. As they contract, they lift and lighten they loosen the underside of the neck. Walking your horse over poles also helps to strengthen his core.

Core stability provides the strength and co-ordination to help with his control, balance, posture and carrying the weight of his rider. It can also improve self-carriage, enhance performance and reduce the risk of injury. The core muscles are vital in maintaining correct posture of his back.

Riding poles and bringing tone into his muscles with half-halts, will help with the engagement of his hind-quarters, encouraging him to collect and push from behind, hill work and riding over poles all help to tone and strengthen his core.

Finally, now your horse’s muscle and joints are warmed up, it’s time to make the transition from that long and low frame to the position you want him in for your working session or test. You need to make sure he’s switched on, in front of your aids, with plenty of activity and ready to work.

If you are having a lesson with your trainer or would like to arrange one with one of Horse Scouts listed trainers please build in time to get to this stage before your lesson starts if you can.  If you have a half hour session with your trainer and your horse is ready to start the hard work at the beginning of a session you can concentrate on working on particular problem areas.  Similarly, ensure that when your lesson is finished you can take the time to cool your horse down for 10 minutes in a low outline to allow him to stretch his muscles and reduce the lactic acid build up before returning to his stable and being sedentary.

In Germany we would often go for a hack down to the lake after a training session and stand in the stream which would cool the horses down too. That was particularly nice but a quiet hack around the school will suffice if you cannot go out.

It is a good thing to note that if your horse starts to fidget or tire during your workout, it’s important to return to a forward and down neck outline to give him a break. It is really important not to skimp on your warm-up! Following a plan similar to the one here will help your horse to perform at his best and lower the risk of injury.

 

 

Equestrian Centre

New to our lists – Berry’s Farm Livery

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Horse Scout is growing!.  Every day it has new professionals adding their profiles to our lists.  If you are looking for livery near Norwich then here  is Berry’s Farm Livery.

Berries Farm Liveries is situated on the outskirts of the small village of Hevingham in Norfolk – seven miles from Norwich and just four miles from Aylsham. Run by Richard and Ruby Pointer and Lisa Morris  Berries Farm, is a friendly family run livery business with over 40 years’ experience working with horses – our full time team of highly experienced, caring staff have the welfare and safety of all the horses and ponies in their charge as their main priority.

We are able offer a wide range of livery options to suit every horse and owner, from DIY to Part, Assisted, Full, Competition and Holiday livery.

The livery business is situated at the centre of a working farm, which means we can provide many miles of wonderful idyllic off road riding, whilst the quite lanes and roads that surround the farm allow for peaceful hacking.

Our facilities include:-

• 20m x 40m floodlit all-weather surfaced ménage

• Full set of show jumps

• Horse walker

• Lunge Pen

• Clipping room

• Covered Hot horse shower/ wash down area

• Miles of tranquil off-road rides

• Lorry/trailer Park

• Excellent managed grazing

They say;

Here at Berries Farm we not only provide a first class livery service, we also specialise in affiliated show jumping, with our Yard Manager, Ruby Pointer producing some of the very best Sport Horses in Norfolk.

Ruby’s father – Richard Pointer is a familiar face on the show jumping circuit supporting not only Ruby but he’s also on hand to provide invaluable advice to up and coming riders. Richard is also the Vice Chairman of the Norfolk Show Jumping Club being one of the founder members of this popular club over thirty years ago.

Richard started his riding career (a very long time ago!) as a four year old boy, by the time he was ten he was competing in affiliated jumping competitions regularly. He then moved onto the Senior County circuit before taking a break.

Ruby started riding at eight years old at a local riding school, she quickly progressed and within two years was jumping affiliated competitions throughout the country on a successful string of ponies that had her standing at the head of the line up on many occasions.

Richard and his wife Sally are still to be found supporting Ruby who has moved up to senior show jumping competitions.

Another key element here at Berries Farm is our Livery Yard Manager, Lisa Morris who has been a long standing influence in Ruby’s life having been with our family since 1996, her dedication and hard work with the horses makes for a superb team.

They provide:

• Professional Care For Your Horse

• On Site Supervision and Late Night Check

• Clipping Service

• Nutritional Advice

• Supply of Home Grown Hay and Haylage

• Shavings Available