Tag Archives: Rider Fitness

How can I stop my horse pulling? …. 3 steps to go!

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Does your horse get offended when you pull on the reins to stop? Does he pin his ears, shake his head, and keep going? Have you ever asked “how can I stop my horse pulling?”

Maybe he’s trying to tell you something: stop pulling on the reins! 🙂

There is a way to get your horse to stop without pulling on the reins.

but first, you both have to be “in sync” together, working in tandem instead of against each other.

If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him. Horses that are regularly pulled on seem to accept that the pressure has to be there before they should respond. They might learn to lean on the bit, pulling against you while you pull backward, hoping for the legs to stop.

Some horses are generous and eventually slow their feet, stop/starting until finally, all four legs come to a halt. Other horses might not be quite as forgiving and just keep going until you have to put more and more pressure on the mouth. Eventually, one of you wins but it’s never pretty!

We all dream of finding the halt that looks like we are in complete harmony with our horse. You know – the one that feels like the horse’s legs are your legs, and your mind is so coordinated with the horse that it looks like you are reading each other’s thoughts.

It does happen. The secret: ride from your seat.

Setup for a Correct Halt

1. Contact

Prepare several strides ahead of the intended location. Your reins should be a good length – not too long and not too short. There should be a steady enough contact on the bit to be able to communicate very subtle changes of pressure.

2. Begin a series of half-halts.

The half-halts start at the seat. In rhythm with the horse’s movement, resist with your lower back. Be sure to resist in rhythm. In other words, your lower back and seat will feel something like this: resist… flow… resist… flow… resist… flow.

2a. Use your legs.

During each flow moment, squeeze lightly with your calves. This helps the horse engage his hind end deeper underneath the body in preparation with the halt.

2b. Use the hands.

During each resist moment, squeeze the reins with your hands. You might squeeze both reins or just one rein (the outside rein being the usual rein) but in any case, do your best to use the hands after the leg aids. The rein pressure should occur in tandem with the resisting seat aid.

3.When you are ready for the halt, simply stop your seat.

Maintain contact with your legs and reins, but stop the activity. Don’t keep pulling on the reins.

If the horse is truly with you, his legs will stop lightly and in balance.

Horses that have been trained to respond to the half-halt will sigh in relief when you lighten up on your aids and use your seat in the halt. You might be surprised at how easily the legs will stop if you can improve your timing and releases.

Horses that have always been pulled on might not respond at all. They might be expecting to be hauled backward, thrown to the forehand, and dragged to a stop. If this is the case, be patient. If you haven’t done this before, it may take a few tries to convince your horse that you want to work with him.

You might have to bridge the learning gap by applying the half-halts several times, stopping your seat and then pulling to stop. In the end though, the pull should disappear completely from your vocabulary (exception: in an emergency stop).

Regardless of how you get there, the goal is to stop all four legs in a light, balanced manner that allows the horse to use his hind end when he takes that last step. Your horse might walk a few strides and then halt.

If you feel your horse’s front end lighten and into the halt, you know you are on the right track. If you discover the four legs stopped square and parallel to each other, pet and gush over him, and call it a day!

Sound talking : horse listening.

Perhaps you would benefit from some lessons, someone on the ground to help you keep on track.  Horse Scout has a great list of professional trainers, check them out here – they should be able to help you stop your horse from pulling.

Are you looking for a Professional Groom?

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Professional Groom with 4 years experience in Bethany Phillips from Braintree, is looking for a live in position. She has a car and holds a valid driving licence. She is available from May 1st 2015.

She lists her areas of expertise as :

  •  Problem horses / re-breaking
  • Competition riding – Unaffiliated
  • Turnout to a high standard
  • Riding, schooling and training
  • Sole charge / Head girl position
  • Sales preparation
  • Work with children
  • Dealing with clients and owners

If you are looking for a competent member of staff then contact Bethany with your requirements.

Horse Scout also has a number of work riders and grooms looking for placements. Click here for further information.

Fitness First – 6 Key Advantages to Core Strength Training  for Riders

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What’s the difference between being pushed in a buggy and ballet dancing? – Well, for riders, it is core stability and fitness for athletic performance.

I’ve noticed that most top riders advocate a fitness regime away from your horse both for aerobic fitness but also physical strength.  Physical fitness and core strength are things which, will, ultimately, make a great deal of difference to your ability to ride a horse well.  Being fit helps you balance and hold your own body (rather than asking the horse to ‘carry’ you).

The muscles of the trunk and torso act to stabilize the spine, pelvis and shoulder girdle. From this solid, balanced base the limbs can be moved powerfully and under control. In fact before rapid movements of the extremities can take place, the central nervous system stabilizes the spine in anticipation (1). The rate at which the core muscles stabilize the spine may have a direct effect on the power of limb movement (2).

Core strength training differs from many traditional weight training routines by working both the lower back and abdominals in unison. The same is true for the upper and lower body. All athletic movements incorporate the core in some way. Very few muscle groups are isolated. Instead the whole body works as a unit and core strength training endeavours to replicate this.

What are the benefits of core strength training to the athletic rider?

  1. Greater efficiency of movement
  2. Improved body control and balance
  3. Increased power output from both the core musculature and peripheral muscles such as the shoulders, arms and legs
  4. Reduced risk of injury (the core muscles act as shock absorbers for jumps and rebounds etc.)
  5. Improved balance and stability
  6. Improved athletic performance!

Charlotte Dujardin and Laura Thompson both have a series of videos on UTube talking about their own fitness and the difference it makes to their riding.  For show jumpers, event riders, jockeys and polo players it all sort of makes sense because they are very physical in their requirements but in truth rider fitness is key in training a horse well right from the off. Flat work and hacking and gridwork all require the rider to be balanced and able to aid the horse and direct using their own body in tension.  This does not mean tensely it means carrying their own body in much the same way as a dancer and is particularly well seen in ballet and contemporary dance.  Good dancers are fit…people who move around to the music and then sit down (well I think you can see where I am going with this one!)

There are some simple things you can do on your own like:

Download a 30 day abs challenge onto your phone and at beginner level.  It is amazing how much difference it makes even at this low level.  There are other advantages too….it makes your tummy flatter.  Bonus!

Or you can try following these simple instructions.

Prone Bridge

In a face down position, balance on the tips of your toes and elbows while attempting to maintain a straight line from heels to head. This exercise focuses on both the anterior and posterior muscle groups of the trunk and pelvis.

Lateral Bridge

Start on your side and press up with your right arm. Form a bridge maintaining a straight line from your hand to your foot. Rest on your elbow to increase the difficulty. This exercise focuses on the abdominal obliques and transversus abdominus.

Core s Supine Bridge

Lying on your back, raise your hips so that only your head, shoulders, and feet are touching the floor. The supine bridge focuses on the gluteal muscles. Stronger gluteals help maintain pelvic control.

Pelvic Thrusts

Lie on your back with your legs bent 90 degrees at the hip. Slowly lift your hips off the floor and towards the ceiling. Lower your hips to the floor and repeat for the prescribed number of repetitions.

Perhaps we should start a campaign and get livery yard owners to encourage all their clients to start running or swimming.  …. Or maybe not. It would be a thought though wouldn’t it?

Never overdo exercise when you are not fit.  Start small and work up, just like you do with your horse.  If you are unsure then invest in your self and your horse and join a gym.

It will make all the difference to you when you are training or even just walking your horse up and down to the field.

Perhaps you could set yourself a goal. If I get to the end of 30 days and I have reached this target then I can…..

Have a lesson with …. (take your pick from Horse Scouts Top Trainers!)

Go Cross Country Schooling/have a jumping session at….(Loads of great equestrian centres to choose from on Horse Scout!)

Do you think this is shamless advertising? Well its more because we think that Horse Scout has a great range of trainers and equestrian centres listed and that you should know about them!.

Have a great day.

 

 

Horse Scouts 6 Top Tips – Warming up from the ground

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What is a warm-up? The term ‘warm-up’ accurately describes what happens when we transition the body from a resting state to a state suitable for activity: the muscles are literally ‘warmed up’, receive increased blood and oxygen supply, gain flexibility and therefore reduce stress on tendons and ligaments.

 

A warm-up will also ensure increased oxygen supply to the blood and the elevation of the heart rate from a resting rate to an activity rate. If you warm up your horse gradually—instead of ‘jump-starting’ his heart-rate—you will also have a calmer, more relaxed, and more willing horse.

 

Sufficient warm up before exercise, training, and competition is essential, in order to avoid injury to muscles, ligaments, and tendons. Our bodies-rider’s and horse’s-are made up of mostly fluids! Warming up body fuids inside muscles reduces the internal friction of a muscle and therefore prevents injury. Mobility and elasticity of muscles is increased, which minimises the strain on ligaments and tendons.

Avoid muscle spasms, discomfort, stiff gaits and in extreme cases torn muscles or tendons or anxiety and unwillingness to work by warming your horse up properly at the beginning of every ride.

Before you even get your horse out of the stable you can start a warm up routine as part of his preparation to be ridden.

Here are 6 top tips to get that blood flowing; the bonus is that it will help get you warmed up too!

  1. A warm up should always start gently.  Getting the blood to start flowing around the body and warming up the muscles. You can start by grooming your horse, and this has an added benefit of giving you the chance to check for injuries and to ensure that all sweat and mud is removed so that it cannot irritate your horse as he starts work.
  1. Having brushed you horse all over start to concentrate on the back area using a technique similar to a Swedish massage, long light stokes using the warmth of your palm and flicking up and away at the end of the stroke.  Its called “Effleurage” you can see graphics on the internet if you search the word. Basically think of it as ironing out the (metaphorical) wrinkles by moulding your palm around the muscles, as you stoke away you will feel a warmth in your hand and he will be feeling the same warmth in his muscles.
  1. Before mounting him walk him around in circles and ask him to walk forward and backwards too.  This will really help if you have a horse with a cold back.
  2. As these movements will help to warm his back muscles up and increase the
  3. blood flow around his whole body.
  1. Finally, before bitting him up, use carrot stretches to help stretch his topline muscles and engage his core muscles. Make sure he has had time to finish his mouthful before setting off. More on carrot stretches later. As these are also excellent at the end of a ride and your horse will love you for feeding him carrots.

When viewing a horse for sale this crucial step is often left out or rushed because of the time element perhaps the seller is a busy yard owner and has to move on to the next sale or job or where buying privately the seller feels rushed because they don’t want to hold you up.  However this could be an important factor in your final decision and it really is best to allow the horse to fully warm up before you get your first impression of him. Perhaps if you go for a second viewing you could ask to take the horse through a full warm up and that way you could also asses his temperament, stable manners, etc from a relaxed and quiet moment or two together, I am sure that if the seller knows you are a serious purchaser they will allow you to do this.

If you are having a training session or clinic with a professional rider then make sure you build in time to do this initial warm up when you arrive, so there is plenty of time to get ready for the start of your lesson.

Mandy Frost holds Show Jumping Clinics at The Mullacott Centre – Mandy Frost is a BS Accredited UKCC Level 3 Coach and Coach of the Year 2009 and also lead coach for Devon Junior Academy as well as being part of the Excel Coaching Programme. As well as competing Nationally. Cost – group of 3 – £20 per person: two sharing – £30 per person: individual -£60

Lucinda Fredericks  Clinics can be organised outside of eventing season. The cost is £1,000 + VAT plus travel expenses. Clinics can be a mix of flatwork, jumping skills or cross country skills or can concentrate on one discipline and can be a mix of group work and private lessons. If you book a 3 day clinic one night can include a video/Talk/Q&A Session and dinner with Lucinda on one of the nights. Lucinda can offer private lessons to individuals or groups from complete beginners right up to advanced competition riders. Lessons can be undertaken at either at Rosegarth or at external locations for more people by booking a clinic day – Lucinda often travels to local XC courses and equestrian centres to offer tuition to small groups. For lessons on site at Rosegarth please note you will need to bring your own horse with you.  Lucinda has two sessions in in Dorset 18 & 28th February 2015 – Her charges are: Individual lessons – £80 for a 45 minute session: Group lesson with 4 people – £35 each for 1 hour: Group lesson for 6 people – £25 each for 1.5 hours charges subject to VAT

 

 

 

Are you looking for Choice – Horse Dealer and Breeder Caron Nichol has it all

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Since 2004 Carron Nicol, the International Show jumper, has run European Sports Horses Ltd, a large breeding, show jumping and dealing yard at Rumer Stud Farm, Long Marston Road, Welford-on-Avon, Warwickshire, CV37 8AF.

The stud has a very large selection of horses in excess of 50 available at all times ranging from foals to 12yrs. Horses are either bred by ourselves, (and they have some lovely Show Jumping stallions on our lists)  or imported from the continent. Each horse carries a one month exchange warranty. Feedback for her business in forums has been nothing but positive an being able to trial a horse for a month is a great way to make absolutely sure that you and your horse are a match.

They have 11 horses advertised with Horse Scout. One, Rosie, is a lovely looking 16.2, 5 year old mare grey KWPN by Lord Z jumping at grade C

They stand stallions Crusador,Mr Visto,Fantaland ,Bogarde,Brandon and Cassini Boy.

Rumer Stud Farm

The stud stands on 81 acres and offers excellent grazing for mares at stud.

24hr onsite supervision, Designated lorry parking, Floodlights on school

Horse walker, Individual turn out, Mirrors around school, Onsite communal tea

And they cater for, breaking & producing, breeding & stud, dealing & sales

Equestrian centre (show centres), livery – competition

Company director and international showjumper Carron Nicol has been riding since the age of five and has over 30 years experience running her own business. Carron competes on a regular basis and has won at international level representing Great Britain.Wins also include Horse of The Year Show and placings in The Hickstead Derby and the Hickstead Speed Derby as well as countless wins in International Trials.

Rumer Stud offers excellent trial facilities including a large 80 x 60m outdoor arena with a sand and rubber surface supplied by Mansfield Sand, an indoor school 46m x 20m with a surface supplied by Andrews Bowen and a 7½ furlong all weather gallop.

 Haylage – Hey! Do you know benefits of feeding Haylage?

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Benefits of feeding haylage

  1. It is dust free
  2. No need to soak
  3. It is convenient to handle
  4. Haylage has a high nutritional value
  5. Its more palatable to horses than hay
  6. Can easily be stored outside as it is packed in water resistant bags.
  7. Unopened bags of haylage keep for up to 18 months without any loss of feeding value.

Haylage is an ideal replacement for hay and excellent for feeding to horses with dust allergies and equine respiratory problems such as COPD, SPAOD and RAOD.

Haylages are made of grass that is cut before it goes to seed. It is semi-wilted grass sealed in a bag but without the dust and spores found in hay.

The benefits of this are that as there are no spores it does not cause or aggravate respiratory problems. Haylage also has a higher nutritional value than hay.

This is acheived by cutting good quality grass – but instead of allowing it to dry completely it is baled when the grass has wilted and the moisture content reduced to about 40 – 45%.

Although haylage will not usually contain dust or mould spores the moisture content will prevent any remaining mould spores becoming airborne – reducing the chance of respiratory problems.

The process of making haylage for horses takes about 24 hours in good drying weather – hay takes 4 – 5 days.

The bales are then compressed to half their original size, packed and heat sealed into plastic bags.

Natural fermentation inside the bag preserves the grass as haylage – which retains 90% of the feed value of fresh grass.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF HAYLAGE

Haylage can come in several forms to suit all types of horses and ponies – ryegrass,high fibre, alfalfa, sainfoin plus special mixes for racehorses and competition horses.

Cost is a factor which may discourage some horse owners from feeding haylage – but you may not need to feed as much haylage to your horse or pony as ordinary hay as haylage has a much higher nutritional value – as a result less hard feed may be needed as well – an additional saving.

Once opened the contents of a bale of haylage should be used as soon as possible as exposure to air gives the chance for mould to develop. A bale will usually keep for 7 days once it has been opened depending on weather conditions.

Sometimes when you open a bale of haylage you will see small white or cream round groups of yeasts on the haylage stems and blades that have a creamy consistency – not fluffy or powdery . These “colonies” are not moulds and do not produce spores – they will not harm the health of your horse or pony. If you make the change from hay to haylage make the change gradual – a horse is very sensitive to any changes in his diet.

HOW MUCH HAYLAGE SHOULD YOU FEED TO A HORSE OR PONY?

If you are used to feeding you’ll need to get used to handling haylage – you don’t want to end up under or overfeeding your horse or pony.

A typical 500 kilo, 16hh middleweight riding horse needs a minimum daily intake of roughage of about 1% of his body weight – this works out to 5 kilos of hay.

As haylage has a higher moisture content, the same riding horse would need a daily ration of 7 to 8.5 kilos of haylage.

Although you need to feed more haylage by weight, you need less by volume – haylage is much denser than hay because of the higher moisture content.

When you start out feeding haylage to your horse it’s best to weigh out the amount every day – until you get accustomed to estimating the volume.

As haylage has about a 10% higher nutritional value than hay less supplementary hard feed will be required to meet a horse or pony’s energy requirements. For further in-depth information about feeding Haylage visit Equi-net, They have some very interesting articles on keeping your horse healthy.

Many livery yards provide haylage for their horses and on Horse Scout we make it easy for you to decide whether a livery yard will suit you with our five star rating.  After all the more information a yard provides on Horse Scouts’ listings pages the better informed you are when looking for somewhere to keep your horse at livery or for training, rehabilitation or selling.

 

 

Buying a pony? – 5 top tips for pony poppits

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Off the lead rein? This next stage is so important.

You need a pony who is rock solid and has experience under his belt…. millage on the clock.

A landmark Study asked children ‘Would you rather play simply for fun, or would you prefer to win?’…. 95% said FUN

So your child has outgrown her first pony, and possibly a second, and has been riding off the lead rein, independently and happily and has shown no signs of reluctance to play with the pony nor to ride it, then he or she may be ready to take the next step.

1. Ask about his background, he is likely to have had two or even three owners, can his history be traced?

2. You need your child to practice, practice and practice more, so don’t be swayed by looks or tempted into buying a young pony “with Potential” at this stage.

3. This next pony will be giving your child the confidence to ride independently, start jumping small jumps, do gymkanas or perhaps even go to Pony Club Camp or at least pony club training sessions and perhaps even progress to grassroots competitions.

4. Most of all though this pony is to have as much fun on as it is possible to fit in!

5. Look for a pony who fits well, try not to be tempted to look at this next purchase as “something your child can grow into” remember confidence comes from feeling safe and being adventurous comes from …feeling safe.

So pick experience, temperament and size as your priorities with pony Number two.

There are a few school-masters advertised on Horse Scouts Ponies for Sale pages, which do sound like wonderful ponies., but as a second pony perhaps

Morwyn Bronze Calypso – Burnham on Crouch, Essex for £2,850 does stands out. His advertisement say he is a fun, safe, well bred registered Welsh Sec B Gelding with so much potential. He would ideally suit a second competition pony, but is also a confidence giver and would be safe for novice. He is jumping comfortably (and winning) at 2.6 but can clear 3.6 at “chase me charlie”. He has never been lame or sorry, no laminitis or sweet itch. Teeth and vaccinations are up to date. I have owned this pony for 7years and had him professionally backed 4 years ago and he has been in constant work ever since. He has sadly been outgrown and needs to find a new rider. Calypso will sell with his entire wardrobe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please note that by recommending a purchaser look at advertisements on the Horse Scout site Horse Scout nor its agents can be held liable or responsible for the suitability or not of any pony registered on its for sale pages.

Buying an All-Rounder? -When do you worry about a swelling?

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When is a bump just a lump?

Are you looking for a horse for sale? One who has a few miles on the clock; the perfect all rounder who is experienced and safe?  Maybe you have seen a few and have noticed that some of them have swellings above the fetlocks on two or four of the legs. There can be many reasons for this and one reason can be hard work which can cause windgall swelling in a horse’s fetlock

What is a windgall? – Windgall is a term used to described the soft swellings often seen just above the fetlock on the forelegs and hind legs of older or hardworking horses, they are not warm to the touch. Windgalls in horses can be seen in many horses in full work – especially in the hind legs. The amount of swelling in a windgall can vary according to the weather – often being more filled in hot temperatures. Horses with hot swelling should be fully investigated by a vet before even considering purchasing.

Although windgalls on a horse’s legs can be an unsightly blemish they do not usually cause lameness – they do are not classed as an unsoundness unless they are causing lameness.  Below are descriptions of the different types of windgalls and they will help you decide if you should worry or not.  However if you are unsure always consult your veterinary surgeon.

SYNOVIAL FLUID IN EQUINE WINDGALLS – A layman’s science

Windgall swellings on the fetlocks occur when the tendon sheaths above the horse’s fetlocks become filled with synovial fluid.

All horse or pony’s joints contain lubricating synovial fluid within a sac or capsule which prevents the fluid leaking away into the surrounding tissues. In the case of the fetlock, the capsule extends out of the back of the actual joint and forms a pouch above the sesamoid bones behind the cannon bone.

If this pouch of the joint capsule becomes thickened or distended, the resulting swelling on the back of the fetlock is known as an articular windgall.

The tendon sheath, in contrast, has nothing to do with the joint and is best

imagined as a sausage of fluid which envelopes the tendons as they run over the back of the fetlock.

At the upper limit just above the level of the sesamoid bones, this fluid filled sausage lies close to the skin, so that any distension will cause a bulge between the flexor tendons and the suspensory ligament – the tendinous windgall.

TENDINOUS WINDGALL

Of the two types of windgall in horses, the tendinous windgall is the most common and least likely to reflect any real trouble.

Tendinous windgalls are often seen in middle aged horses and ponies who have worked hard – in many cases the swelling actually represents thickening of the membrane lining the sheath rather then free fluid. Tendinous windgalls come and go in some horses and ponies.

ARTICULAR WINDGALLS

Articular windgalls are more likely to be an indicator of genuine disease, as they appear in cases of degenerative joint disease of the fetlock and in certain traumatic conditions.

They are also seen in a great number of ‘normal’ horses who never show any signs of lameness over a protracted period, appearing as firm bulges between the back of the cannon bone and the suspensory ligament.

Many showjumpers, eventers, hunters and ponies develop stiff fetlocks which cannot be passively flexed to the normal extent and which carry articular windgalls all the time.

These horses appear to cope well with these inflexible fetlocks and, although they might pose a dilemma for a veterinary surgeon examining the horse for soundness prior to purchase, the horses go on, season after season.

‘WINDGALLS’ APPEARING BELOW THE FETLOCKS

If a windgall-like swelling appears below the horse’s fetlock, on the back of the pastern, this usually represents a swelling of the lower part of the flexor sheath of the tendons, rather like an upside down tendinous windgall.

Such swellings should be viewed with suspicion, as they may indicate that the sausage of the sheath is being compressed in the middle, making both ends bulge.

Compression is usually due to a contraction of the annular ligament which runs in a thick hand around the back of the fetlock from one sesamoid bone to the other, looping over the tendons.

Should this structure become inflamed or tightened, abnormal pressure will be placed on the tendons and their sheath, restricting the free movement of the tendons over the sesamoids.

This condition, known by a variety of names like Annular Ligament Disease or Desmitis of the Annular Ligament, causes a chronic low grade lameness which may resolve with a period of treamnet and rest, only to return when the horse is brought back into work

6 Coloured Stallions – Well spotted Horse Scout

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What makes a coloured horse coloured?…a lack of colour!

An explanation of Tobiano and skewbald

TOBIANO (Toh-bee-ah’no) appears to be white with large “spots” (or “patches”) of colour, often overlapping, on animals with a greater percentage of colour than white. Spots of colour, typically, originate from the head, chest, flank and buttuck, often including the tail. Legs are generally white, giving the appearance of a white horse with large or flowing spots of colour. Generally white crosses the centre of the back between the withers and tail.

OVERO (O-vairo) appears to be a coloured (where coloured is meant here to signify any other shade of coat than white) horse with white markings. The spots of white appear to be jagged and originate on the animal’s side or belly, spreading towards the neck, tail, legs and back. The colour (any other shade than white) appears to frame the white spots. An overo often has a dark tail, mane, legs and backline. Faces are often white. Some overos show dark legs with splashy white markings seemingly made up of round lacy white spots. The location of the white never crosses the backline.

Horse Scout has 6 coloured stallions on its lists here is the information, click through to find out more.

1. Solaris Buenno – £500

Homozygous coloured tobiano Scottish Bred Sports Horse

Type – Allrounder, Coloured, Dressage, Jumpers / Show Jumper, Showing, Sports General,

Solaris Buenno, is an interesting addition to the world of warmblood and sport horse breeding .Solaris Buenno is an interesting addition to the world of warmblood and sport horse breeding and an excellent choice for the showing enthusiast. His sire Umenno, has an accomplished performance record to date and his dam Edwina a first premium Supreme Champion mare who`s progeny have already been successful in the county showring.

Buenno, has not only inherited the qualities of both sire and dam but consistantly passes them on to his progeny, elasticity, suppleness, atheleticism, tremendous shoulder reach and powerful hind engine, despite his injury which has prevented him from following an inhand showing and ridden career.

2. Farco Van Vriesput(aka Fab Frankie)  £500

16.2hh Belgium Warmblood 2005

Type – Allrounder, Coloured, Dressage, Jumpers / Show Jumper, Showing, Sports General,

About Frankie

Fully Graded and licensed CHAPS and BSPA,gaining 9.5 for jumping ability,conformation,rideability and manners. BSJA Life Approved,almost Grade B and Elite CHAPS.Frankie has an amazing temperament,making him very rideable with great trainability,all of which he passes on to his stock.Frankies bloodline is currently ranked 4th in the world of International Showjumping breeding lines.Frankie is available for AI,both fresh and chilled doses.

3. Moorhey Tomahawk – Lancashire, Lancs -£400

15.2hh Leopard Spotted Appaluosa

A true all round Sports Horse Stallion this compact stallion has it all. He has the most fantastic temperament, drop dead gorgeous looks & perfect conformation. To add to all that he has successes in Showing, Sports horse Classes, young Event Horse Classes, BSJA Show jumping & BD Dressage. He is the proven sire of a HOYS winner, numerous Showing & Sports Horse Champions, as well as Show jumpers & Dressage horses.Show Jumping He has substantial BSJA winnings showing a superb technique over a fence which he passes onto all his offspring. He is both bold & careful with plenty of scope. Dressage He has almost 200 Bd points winning at Elementary level. Last year he was 4th at the Nationall & won the Individual Elementary Section at the BD Home Internationals at Rowellan. Sports Horse As both a 4 & 5year old he won numerous Ridden Sports Horse Classes & qualified for the Burghley young Event Horse Final at Burhgley. Showing Numerous Ridden & In Hand Championships,to his name

4. Country Colour Spot – Lancashire, Lancs

12.2 Part Bred Arab Homozygous Bay Tobiano

Licensed PBA Graded BSPA BSJA Assesed

A super Sports/Show Pony Sire & being Homozygous guaranteed to throw a coloured foal to any colur of mare. Being by our own Spotswood Jafeica, he has inherited his father’s superb temperament, great attitude to work & is just a star to do anything with. His paces are superb, with a lovely elevated floating movement & a natural uphill ride. Qualified RIHS ridden coloured on first outing. He has his sire’s natural aptitude to jumping, he passed his BSJA assessment with flying colours & is now showing his huge scopey jump in the ring. BSJA winnings with Double clear in Stepping Stones & British Novice ridden by a 10year old girl. He won Nursery stakes Working Hunter at Winter Festival of Champions, his first ever Working Hunter class. He is proving to be an absolute star taking everything we throw at him in his stride. This pony is an absolute dream to do anything with, he has a great personality, loves to work & please & is fantastic with the smallest jockey. Qualified RIHS Ridden Coloured on first outing under saddle 2011 Won Nursery Stakes championship at Spring Festival of Showing in first WH Class BSJA winnings with double clears in Stepping Stones.

5. Country Top Dollar – Lancashire, Lancs  £570

16.2 Bay Tobiano TB X  Dressage Stallion

This stallion has inherited his sire’s elegant looks & famous temperament. He is a true Ridding horse stamp, full of quality & presence but given his Dam’s achievements & family history also full of jumping ability. His elegant looks & paces have made him a top show horse & successful dressage horse but his ability over a fence & his breeding make him too good to just keep on the flat! He is by our one & only ‘Country Top Gun’ & as with his sire he is a true thoroughbred with pure quality, he is one of the most elegant coloured horses around & he is even more stunning in the flesh.

Country Top Gun – Lancashire, Lancs  £600

Coloured16.2hh Anglo European Grade B Jumping Stallion

One of the best known & most proven coloured stallions in the country. Imported from Ireland as a foal, his Top Class blood lines go back to both sets of grandparents. He has produced over 80% coloured foals. Country Top Gun has Top Show Horses, Show Jumpers & National Hunt Horses in his pedigree which includes Prefairy & goes back to the legendery Precipitation. His Sire Stensen is the sire of many top class coloured competition & Show horses. His full sister Pauldary’s Lady Aaddie is a prolific winner in the show ring.

6. Umenno – Braco, Perthshire  £700

16.1hh Chestnur Tobiano KWPN / Dutch Warmblood

Umenno possesses a good trainable temperament, powerful flamboyant movement, a beautifully marked chestnut and white robe, and a pedigree of legendary ancestry with 50% thoroughbred. Bred with athleticism in mind Umenno is an expressive powerful mover with off the floor paces and has demonstrated good jumping ability in the showjumping arena.Umenno was also shown in hand throughout the UK, standing Open Non Native National Champion and young stock reserve. He has stood Champion at many National county shows including, the Scottish Chaps National, the Highland Show, Fife Show, and Great Yorkshire along with other wins in Sport Horse classes.As a four year old he jumped double clears in British Novice. Discovery and Newcomers. He qualified for the Royal Show potential showjumper, the Royal International Horse Show BSPA Ridden finals, Burghley young event horse, Arena UK 4 year old SJ championship, and the Scottish Sports Horse 4 year old showjumping sport horse series along with numerous overall Championships in ridden sport horse classes often standing vainquer to older competitors. Winner of the five year classes at Bicton and the six year old class in St Legier Switzerland with additional placings at RII with Rudi Wallerbosch.Umenno has since been sold to South Africa and has dominated the showing circuit with multiple wins and Championships.Frozen semen is still available for distribution within all EU countries, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the USA.

 

In Praise of the Talented Amateur Rider

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If Professional riders are the backbone of the sports horse industry then Talented Amateur Riders are the muscle.

In every sector of the British Equine Industry there are talented amateur riders producing and competing against the professional riders who make their living in their industry. Horse and Hound have recently featured an array of well known and very talented amateur riders who hold down a job and still find time to work their horses.  You have to admire this army of dedicated riders.  Early morning and late nights (not that professional trainers don’t of course) Weekends are dedicated to lessons or competing and evenings reserved for clinics and schooling sessions, and midnight is that special hour for cleaning tack!…possibly after an evening out with friends, who knows.

Some Amateurs concentrate on producing talented horses for the professional market, like Becky Marsden who trained OBOS Columbus “Obie” who she sold as an eight year old to Mark Tod who is delighted with him. Becky says, of her choice in horses to buy to bring on that “They have to be sensible in their heads” because she will often be riding alone. Caroline Brdge also produces horses for the profesional market like Don George, but also sells to other amateurs who want to compete seriously and don’t necessarily have time to bring a horse up to the level at which they want to be competing.

Vicky Brake, who produced horses such as mary Kings horse Imperial cavalier says “I’ve learned over the years that’s cautious everytime it moves up a level is likely to be found out, so you shouldn’t waste time trying to make it into something it isn’t”

For Darren mattia who produces dressage horses; Dimaggio and Woodland Wesuvio were started by him, hacking is key to starting his youngsters off.  He says that being out on the lanes and tracks keeps their minds occupied and so he is able to take advantage of their energy to “ride them forward”

For the grassroots rider looking for Horses for Sale; David Brooms tips on buying a horse really stand out for me.  Reading Forums where the topics are being discussed by the grassroots community in any riding discipline the one thing that comes up again and again is temperament.  When looing for a horse which is going to meet your needs as an amateur rider then aside from the obvious good leg at each corner, soundness, and ability come temperament.

Make those few precious hours you have with your horse the best they can be and buy a horse with the nicest temperament.

For me temperament and talent over looks any day.

Most well made horses with the right temperament and training will, given time reach to say, medium advanced in Dressage, Novice or even intermediate in Eventing, 110/120m in showjumping. Other disciplines like showing or endurance will need the confirmation of an angel to compete successfully, but for other disciplines the adage handsome is as handsome does is just so true.

If you are thinking of buying a horse which has been produced by an amateur look at its competition record, this will give an indication of breaks in its training (and you can ask why) and how consistent it has been in its placings and progress through the levels.

Horse Scout has some lovely horses for sale which have been produced by both professionals and some very talented amateur riders.  Horse Scout has made it easy to see, at a glance, the horses competition level, and if applicable, how many points it has accrued.  Five star listings will have information and photos and videos too. You can also check out the producers profile page. In fact Horse Scout offers a really good overview helping you make an informed choice before even picking up the telephone.  Good Luck in you search.